Two Storey Rabbit Cages
Doubling or trebling the size of your rabbit's cage without taking up more of your living space might sound like a perfect solution to rabbit housing issues, but before you rush out and buy a two storey cage there are a few points to consider. In fact, this article will probably convince you probably don't want to buy one.
Most two storey rabbit cages are just variations on single storey cage designs. There hasn't been any careful thought involved about around cleaning, access or rabbit needs. It's just two cages stacked one above the other with the roof of the lower one removed. This means they generally have the same pros and cons as single cages and it will help to read: choosing a rabbit cage for tips on what to look out for and avoid.
Size
The majority of two storey cages are based on smaller cages to start with. The biggest available with a plastic base tray is 48"/120cm long whereas single storey cages in the same style can go up to 62" long, so you've already lost out in potential floor area on each level. The extra level will not make a cage that is too small big enough. If each individual level is too small i.e. you rabbit does not have enough space to stretch out easily or have room for toys, then the cage is going to be uncomfortably cramped even with a second level - remember your rabbit will only be in one level at a time.
Ferplast do offer a modular cage the 'Multipla', which can have additional modules added on a second level. This gives the capacity to build quite a large two tier cage - the downside is that it's quite an expensive way to create a living space.
Useable Space
Not all of the space gained with extra levels is useable. When comparing cages, remember to subtract the space that is not useable. This includes the areas under the ramp and the area in the upper stories where the floor is removed to create an entrance hole. Three storey cages offer even less benefit as the middle level has both a hole cut out to go down and unusable space under the ladder to go up. These unusable spaces mean that a short two storey cage offers little more space than a long single storey cage.
Other Issues
They also have their other potential issues:
- Some cages were originally designed with small rodents in mind and the ramp or shelves are positioned in a way that's not particularly ergonomic to a rabbit.
- The upper levels often sit inside the lower cage reducing the floor to ceiling height – which tends to be a little lacking to start with in commercial cages – this often means a rabbits ability to stand up would be restricted.
- They are expensive - multi-storey rabbits cages tend to cost a lot and there are much more cost effective ways of creating better spaces.
- They are difficult to access for cleaning – as you can't access the lower level through the top, you either have to unstack the cage each time you clean or do all the cleaning through the small door in the side.
That's not to say that using multiple levels is always a bad idea - rabbits do enjoy vantage points and an additional level can be a bonus done the right away, but only as part of a larger overall setup. A DIY option for a two storey cage is a dog crate with a shelf.
Two Storey Cages by Floor Area
| Cage | Length | Width | Height | Levels | Floor Area | Unusable | Total Area |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Multipla Double | 142cm | 72cm | 92cm | 2 | 1.02 sq m | 2.04 sq m | |
| 2 Storey Corner Cage | 100cm | 100cm | 86cm | 2 | 0.88 sq m | 1.75 sq m | |
| Rabbit 120 Tris | 118cm | 58cm | 166cm | 3 | 0.68 sq m | 2.05 sq m | |
| Rabbit 120 Double | 118cm | 58cm | 117cm | 2 | 0.68 sq m | 1.37 sq m |
Note: Measurements are approximate.
Any additional floor space you do gain from multiple levels does not replace the requirement for daily exercise in a much larger area.
